Of recent years, I have been rather astonished with the way knitwear has really come into its own and though designers are carving out niches for themselves to shed away the confines of knitwear, it is still an artisanal craft. Tim Ryan, who is originally from Ireland and is now based in London, is one of those who are doing things within the genre of knitwear that isn't of the norm yet the fundamentals of the craft of kntiwear are still being upheld with his 12 years of self-taught knitting experience (he was previously in sculpture... natural progression really...).
"People often they have a very fixed idea of what knitwear is or isn't. The prevailing idea being that it is some kind of secondary thing, something other. We think of knitwear as a viable whole-wardrobe solution, real clothes, and this is reflected in the fact that we do not stick to the traditional knitwear standards but also produce a lot of dresses and evening pieces and are really not very into 'knitwear' as a concept. We only produce knits but we never think of them as such."
I have a particular fascination and curiosity with one-piece cutting. i.e. using as few pattern pieces as possible and given the complex nature of knitting, calculating the number of stitches, it seems like a heady task that Ryan creates pieces that are often seamless.
"Construction and shape are the primary interests throughout the collections, we tend to work alot with the fact that garments can be constructed in pattern pieces larger than a full circle (the biggest single piece that can be cut from fabric without seaming is a single circle) and also with integral shaping, all things that cannot be done in flat pattern making, this lends itself to sometimes seamless or single seamed spiral pieces all constructed from a single thread."
His spring summer collection is inspired by a 1970's reinterpretation of the Art Deco period. I have a love hate relationship with Lurex yet here, Ryan has added lines, pleating and detailing that is ever so prominent that it adds a much needed depth to a material that can often be used in an attrocious manner. The shapes dance between shimmying flappers and disco queens and so as the two decades collide, we end up with something that isn't at all cliched. With a great deal of respect for knitwear as a craft (but not as a clothing genre thank god....), Ryan only sources the finest cashmeres from Scotland and Italy and all pieces are made in Europe. More designers of the likes of Tim Ryan and perhaps we can stop having notions of what 'knitwear' is supposed to be as it seems to be me that it doesn't have any limitations whatsoever.
These are just amazing! Thanks for the post.
Posted by: Iheartfashion | 03 February 2008 at 15:46
Great, original ideas. I love those.
Posted by: enc | 03 February 2008 at 17:28
Oh, wow... These are literally breath-taking, and right up my street! I hope to eventually go into knitwear design, and create pieces like these. The highwaisted, pin-tucked skirt is incredible. I really would love to own it! The first dress is beautiful too, and so intricately tucked! I'm amazed that he can create such structure without seams, as they normally stop the piece from sagging. Wow...
Posted by: buttonsandstars | 03 February 2008 at 18:39
G'wan the Irish!
Posted by: Lyndsay | 03 February 2008 at 19:44
fabulous, where can i find them?
Posted by: michelle | 03 February 2008 at 20:16
Those pieces are incredible, I can't believe that some of those picks are knits, and no seam!
Posted by: Jill | 03 February 2008 at 20:46
Lovely!!! "trés féminin"....Thanks for the info of this createur!!
Posted by: tendergirl | 03 February 2008 at 21:04
Cool stuff.
Posted by: WendyB | 03 February 2008 at 21:53
personally, i love knits... i live in them...no idea what i would do without them.
these are indeed lovely
Posted by: lady coveted | 04 February 2008 at 02:34
I desperately love the top on the bottom right, it looks vaguely like chainmail in the picture. It would be amazing to see something like knit transformed into something harsher- perhaps with leather pants/wax jeans.
Posted by: CJB | 04 February 2008 at 03:47
I love knit :), looks classy. I just try to keep my outfit simple when i wear knit stuff, so it won't look too "girly". Ryan's designs are beautiful.
Posted by: Raisa | 04 February 2008 at 04:31
I have long loved your blog! I just started my own on blogspot...any advice for me, the lovely blog neophyte? You Rock. - marilyn http://stylealamoda.blogspot.com/
Posted by: | 04 February 2008 at 05:26
They are FABULOUS. I adore the 2nd picture. I wonder if it would look that wonderful in real life... Thank you for telling us about this designer.
Posted by: Passementerie | 04 February 2008 at 09:54
those are great! im interested in knit but i have no idea how to work with it
Posted by: clover | 04 February 2008 at 10:19
Lovely work! really special!!
Susie, visit my blog, I made a special interview with an argentinian shoe maker, I think you gonna love it!
Posted by: Mer | 04 February 2008 at 10:44
Wonderful! Thanks for this post!
Posted by: Katrin | 04 February 2008 at 11:27
Fabulous knitwear absolutley love it! i work in knitwear these are like peices of art!
Posted by: sophie | 04 February 2008 at 11:54
wow, you're right, i never saw knitwear from this point of view. pretty unique, these pieces are.
Posted by: cate | 04 February 2008 at 14:22
I agree with this, knitwear is surprisingly malleable both materially and conceptually...
Posted by: riz | 04 February 2008 at 17:16
lovelovelove- where can i buy? the sheer genie-pant jumper is made for me. Thanks Susie- always an inspiration!
Posted by: sarah | 04 February 2008 at 19:17
Just to reply...
Tim Ryan is stocked at Concrete in Marshall St Sohoin London
In US they are stocked at Curve in both the New York, Mercer St. and LA, Robertson Blvd. stores.
Posted by: susie_bubble | 05 February 2008 at 15:27
Waouh, I love those dresses!! Whare can I see this in Paris????
Posted by: Material Girl | 06 February 2008 at 13:04
This is amazing stuff. I love his philosophy given how true it is that knitwear *is* often overlooked. With this line, that is clearly not possible.
Posted by: ambika | 07 February 2008 at 22:32